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The next morning we got woken at the horrific hour of 4:45am for the morning prayer ritual (similar to that in Istanbul though at least they waited until a slightly more tolerable 6am) - video here. All of Thursday was to be spent cruising along the Nile in a felucca and doing various activities around that, but much like every other day so far it proved to be another random and confusing one hehe. A felucca is a traditional wooden sailing boat used particularly along the Nile in Luxor and Aswan* further south (which would have been great to visit also but we just couldn't fit it in to the week). I had organised this all-day felucca excursion online a few weeks in advance, however after discussing it with the owner of our hostel (Mia, Australian chick living in Luxor for two years now) we found we could get the same thing for about half the price. It turns out this isn't uncommon - booking excursions online is generally not worth it, you're likely to get a far better price by booking either through your accommodation or a local travel agent. So, plans were changed at the last minute and we cancelled our original booking to go instead with a close friend of Mia's husband (an Egyptian whom she met in Germany, much like I met my American girlfriend in Santorini - it's a global world we live in hehe). Above is our felucca, very Bob Marley themed.

* Interesting fact about Aswan by the way: it's one of the driest inhabited places in the world. Until early 2001, the last rainfall there had occured seven years earlier, and until early 2010, the last rainfall was a thunderstorm on May 13, 2006. Settlements in that region generally do not bother to roof all of the rooms in their houses.


 
 
We started out at about 9am, cruising slowly south along the Nile - so nice!
 
Between ferries, other feluccas, and several ugly cruise ships, the Nile is a busy place!

 
 
Our first stop was over on the West Bank again though this time a ways south of Luxor, where there were these two beasts waiting to take us around the area.
 
Damn, where are your teeth man?!
 
My camel seemed to be constantly hungry, tearing the shit out of trees and bushes every chance it got.

 
 
We were led away from the river along, a road, I guess you could call it. We passed a lot of folk working in the fields in the already-close-to-30-degree sun. In the height of summer it regularly exceeds 40 degrees here. I've never been in those sort of temperatures before - the highest I think I've ever experienced is 36 in Brisbane, and there's no way I would've been busting my guts in a field in that let alone 40!

 
 
Bamboo fields...
 
...and sugar cane fields. My camel devoured some of it, as did we - sweet stuff!

 
 
This area, like most of the Nile, is all wee villages. People don't go to work in an air-conditioned office every day and sit in front of computers for eight hours, but instead tend to the crops and the animals and all the rest of it, selling much of what they produce to earn a living. It's all very labour-intensive with no large machinery anywhere to do this shit for them - if anything the only machinery they have are the camels and donkeys or mules or burros or asses or whatever they are. Still, the chicks on the right picking out corn cobs seemed happy in their work. I guess it's all they've ever known.

 
 
As we continued further from the Nile (my camel again with a face full of food) we passed through a small plantation of banana plants - the first of many we were to see that day (more on that below).

 
 
We then wandered into one of the local villages, which was an amazing experience! Notice how every thing is made of that mud brick I mentioned earlier.
 
Even out here they have satellite hahaha! I wonder what the porn channels are like ;)

 
 
Just like in Luxor yesterday, the kids all came out and found us totally fascinating! Video of them all here.
 
And these kids were hooning around on a motorbike haha! Again, health and safety just doesn't exist here, or road rules.
 
Good job love.

 
 
Kodak moment.
 
Not a lot of meat on those bones.
 
I nearly wet my pants when this thing drove past us, though I refrained from laughing out loud so as not to offend anybody but man was I losing it on the inside! Datsun - they just keep on keeping on ;)

 
 
After about 90 minutes of that and a bloody sore backside, we got back on the felucca and continued south to this...
 
...Banana Island! Kind of what it says on the can, except it's not really an island - just a title loosely applied to two large banana plantations either side of the river.

 
 
Banana flowers!
 
Couple fun facts about the good ol' banana: it is the world's second most popular fruit behind the apple, and they come in a variety of sizes and colours when ripe including yellow, purple, and red. Ah-mazing.
 
For whatever reason, the owners of the plantation keep a pet crocodile. Well why not I guess.

 
 
Somewhere in a neighbouring village that we walked through, putting bread dough out in the sun to rise.
 
We had some of that bread with this feast of chicken and veg and rice etc. for lunch - bloody nice!
 
They even brought out a sheesha for us, oh and a shitload of bananas of course hehe.

We left Banana Island after lunch and started heading north along the Nile back towards Luxor. It was about 1pm at this stage - another four hours until sunset. In our mind, this was an all-day felucca trip (including sunset). I knew in advance of the camel ride and Banana Island visit, but I wasn't sure how they were planning to fill the remaining four hours. As it turns out, they took us back to shore in Luxor, asked if we'd had a good time, and sent us on our way hahaha! We were thoroughly confused but given the last-minute change of plan around the whole excursion we didn't really think much of it, and wandered back into town. To be continued...

 
 
Now then, there's been a long running joke between Kristina and I around the subject of me getting a pedicure hehe. After travelling extensively for almost three months on the go now, Kristina's feet were looking pretty sorry for themselves and she'd been gagging for a pedicure for ages, but we just hadn't been able to find anywhere to do it. Until Luxor of all places. So, since we had some time to kill we figured why not, and seeing as I'm not exactly a pretty boy and don't indulge in such things myself I decided to get a bit of pampering for once too hahaha! Pedicure, shave, haircut...

 
 
Even the old eyebrows got a threading and the face got the once over!
 
About E£200 or €25 later, I emerged a beautiful new man, ohhh yeah ;)

Now it was about 3pm and we decided to head back to the hostel, chill out in the sun on the rooftop terrace for a bit, and go find some dinner after. When we got back, Mia asked what the hell had happened - why were we not still on the felucca hahaha! She confirmed she had arranged with her husband's mate the full-day trip for us including sunset etc, and we explained that we didn't really know ourselves what the deal was. Her husband then emerged and they both seemed pretty pissed with their mate, and assured us they'd have this sorted in ten minutes hehe. So we hung about while they got him back on the phone and let him have it. Next thing we were thrown in a taxi, taken back to the Nile to meet this fella again, and were back on the water hahaha! In a nutshell I think there was just a genuine misunderstanding between Mia and her husband's mate, but we really weren't too worried about it - I think another four hours bobbing up and down on the Nile would've soon got boring and we managed to get some much-needed pampering in instead ;)

 
 
By this stage we were maybe half an hour away from sunset, so rather than pissing about with a felucca we were put straight on a motorboat and sped out to the middle of the Nile.
 
It's a hard life, all this pampering and drinking beer in the sun on a river etc.

 
Feluccas have been made obsolete by motorboats and ferries, but are still in active use as a means of transport in Nile-adjacent cities, and are especially popular among us tourists. As such, there are still plenty around.

 
 
Going...
 
Going...
 
Gone.

 
 
Back on dry land yet again, and we grabbed a caleche (horse-drawn carriage) for a quick hoon around Luxor. Everywhere you go you get hounded by these guys looking for business. We'd had fended them off until this point but then decided why not. The going rate is anything between E£1 and E£5 depending on where you want to go and how good your haggling is. We asked them to take us to a market we'd heard about to do a bit of souvenir shopping and wandering.

 
 
Luxor Market. This thing covers a long stretch of road, and during the 30 minutes we were wandering through we saw (and could smell) some pretty interesting stuff to say the least hehe. I was also offered several camels and a chicken in exchange for Kristina hahaha!
 
Friday morning. After three awesome days in Luxor, we headed for the train station.

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